at Drouant, in the kitchens of the Academy

What could be more French than a literary academy based in a restaurant? Each year, the winner of the Goncourt is revealed at Drouant, in Paris. We visited behind the scenes of this institution.

CIt’s not every day that you sign a confidentiality clause when entering a restaurant. We will therefore remain silent about the menu which will be served on Monday November 4 to the Goncourt jury, to the winner, to its publisher and to customers, at the Drouant table, in the 2^e district of Paris. We will respect the tradition and protocol that governs the backstage of the most important French literary prize.

“Here, we even have a mailbox in the name of the jury,” confides James Ney, enthusiastic thirty-year-old and current director of this institution which welcomes its customers in an elegant, modernized Art-deco decoration. The sentence is known: at the French Academy, we have an armchair; at the Goncourt academy, we have a place to eat! And not just any cutlery: since 1961, the names of the recipient juror owners have been engraved in italics on their vermeil handles. On number 1 (there are ten, among the number of Academicians) appear the names of Colette, Jean Giono, Bernard Clavel, André Stil, Bernard Pivot, illustrious predecessors of Pascal Bruckner.

But backtrack. The adventure for Charles Drouant began in 1880. At the beginning of the Belle Époque, he opened a tobacco bar in the heart of Paris, near the Opera, stores, and the press. Drouant, like many restaurateurs (Weppler, Lipp, Bofinger, etc.) is Alsatian. His brother-in-law, a Breton named Madec, ensures his supply of oysters. He is the first to place a scale outside the restaurant, which brings success. And the Goncourt brothers are part of the “aristocracy”, with Monet, Rodin, Octave Mirbeau and even Clemenceau, the president of the council, who frequents the place. Thirty years later, in 1914, the executors of Edmond and Jules, who were looking for a place to award the Prize after the bankruptcy of the Hôtel de la Paix, naturally thought of this bistro.

A “boudoir” out of the world

Very quickly, a few rules were put in place. The Prize is awarded in November, before lunch and no longer dinner. There are ten jurors. They meet to refine their selection every first Tuesday of the month – with a break in August – in the lounge assigned to them. This one, located at 1^is floor, has a view of the small Place Gaillon. Away from the hustle and bustle of the kitchens and the restaurant, the atmosphere is cozy and the carpet is thick. It feels like an English club. “The acoustics are remarkable”points out James Ney; we can talk to each other without raising our voices from one end of a beautiful oval table to the other. In this “boudoir” out of the world, confidentiality is king. No one may enter except for service. The 1958 edition also left its mark, when a young reporter, who had managed to place microphones in the chandelier, was discovered hiding in a cupboard. The journalist was none other than Alain Ayache, who would later become press boss.

Paradox of the success of the Goncourt, which overlooks with its prestige the approximately two hundred other French literary prizes, it gave rise to the birth of another, which claims to be more anarchist. A group of journalists and critics, awaiting the nomination of the prize in 1925, decided to create their own, the Renaudot, which sits… in the small salon adjoining that of their colleagues. Another ritual was thus born, decisive in the world of publishing: after the deliberation, a representative of Goncourt informed a member of Renaudot of their choice so as not to make duplicates. This is done in the hallway, and lasts a few seconds.

This year’s theme? “Paris, gourmet capital”

A few years ago, during protracted deliberations, Frédéric Beigbeder, member of Renaudot, suffering from a stroke, tried to enter the Goncourt salon. He was physically prevented by the general delegate of the Academy, Françoise Rossinot who, although charming, was no less intractable on protocol… From 1932, and the consecration by Renaudot of the Voyage by Céline (the Goncourt went to an unknown person, Guy Mazeline), the Prize has found its place in the literary landscape. He is also announced on the legendary Ruhlmann staircase, in the same breath, and in the shadow of his big brother.

What about the kitchen, then? Since the arrival of James Ney as manager and chef Romain Van Thienen in the kitchen, the duo has demonstrated audacity and inventiveness to shake up tradition. This requires that shellfish be served as a starter (tradition established by Colette) then game (feathered, even years, furred, odd years). The two young men even drew their ideas from literature. Thus, with reference to Backwards, d’Huysmans, a black meal was served. With squid ink for the starter, turtle soup, and figs and blackcurrants to accompany the venison… This year, the theme that inspired them is “Paris, gourmet capital”, we don’t will hardly know more because the menu surprise cannot be revealed before Monday, 2:30 p.m.

The Goncourt menu
Noble and local products: until December 15, it will be possible to taste the lunch which will be served to the jury on November 4. In a six-course (190 euros) or three-course (130 euros) menu, it’s the opportunity to discover the creativity of Romain Van Thienen, the chef who trained with Yannick Alléno and Cyril Lignac. Allow an additional 120 euros for a food and wine pairing and reserve 72 hours in advance. Such. 01 42 65 15 16.