Era: the most intriguing restaurant of the moment has just opened in Brussels

Let’s be clear from the outset. The world of Era, a new restaurant recently opened in Brussels, had nothing to seduce us a priori. At least in appearance. Velvet quilted sofas, giant chandeliers and old parquet floors rubbed shoulders with an oyster dish that looked too elaborate, an aesthetic that was a little too polished and prices that were a little too exorbitant. Yes, this new restaurant had all the makings of an overrated address. And yet, Era is perhaps clear proof that you should never trust appearances.

Discover our experience at Era in pictures:

It’s even a nice back-to-school surprise. The restaurant is located in the heart of the new Fleur de Ville hotel, a little art gem reminiscent of Agatha Christie located a stone’s throw from the Place des Martyrs. But Era is not just a hotel restaurant, on the contrary, its doors are open to everyone, as long as you find the address behind the pretty neoclassical facade. “Wow” effect guaranteed as soon as you pass through the sumptuous wrought iron door of this building which was formerly the Caisse Générale d’Épargne et de Retraite, a leading financial institution in the capital. Architectural details steeped in history combine with contemporary decor signed by designer Saar Zafrir, based in Amsterdam.

The place can seem a little impressive at first, or even downright overwhelming. Especially since you have to climb a majestic marble staircase with incredible ceiling height to reach the restaurant upstairs. A cozy space with barely forty seats is then revealed. The gigantic windows overlook the City Hall tower sparkling in the distance. We slide, no, we sink into a seat. The atmosphere suddenly becomes enveloping, we feel comfortable.

What breaks the stuffy side is surprisingly the service, precise and careful, but which operates in complete relaxation. The bartenders come from Green Lab and the ABC company, the same goes for the front-of-house staff who have not necessarily cut their teeth in big houses. Yet it is flawless. The cocktails are grandiose, and above all of such finesse. We sip a Reminiscence with bourbon, green apple and wasabi syrup to give ourselves the little “kick” we need. For palates who prefer to operate gently, make way for an Elysium composed of a gin flavored with fennel, yuzu, orange blossom and Champagne.

Meanwhile, we’ll take a look at the short but tempting menu. And we let ourselves be tempted by the oysters pimped with pork garum (the little touch of umami), chili oil, a hint of caviar and lemon, but also by the leek croquettes sprinkled with Comte. Then, it’s time for the best moment of the meal, when the hamachi sashimi arrives with its very thin strips of marinated radish, and its ponzu sauce with blood orange and chive oil. Monumental killing in which we advise you – we even urge you – to fare la scarpetta, that is to say, to cheerfully dip a sourdough bread signed Mains (which we serve you with whipped miso butter to die for).

The other climax of the meal: the skewer of skirt and sweetbreads, which the waitress also advises you to remove from the skewer to form the famous “perfect bite” with the grilled sucrine, the hyper-air mashed potatoes and the Café de Paris sauce that accompanies it. It’s melting and tender at the same time. With a constant play between flavors from here and there. The palate wanders from Japan to Indonesia via Italy without losing its bearings thanks to quality local products that we know very well. In short, the cuisine of young chef Yonatan Cohen – despite his relative anonymity – is tasty and surprising, particularly in terms of cooking and seasoning. The opportunity to remember that you don’t necessarily need a big name to do great things.

The only small precaution: the price, although it is largely justified given the quality of the products. Expect around €16 for a cocktail, between €12 and €22 for an appetizer (2 pieces), between €18 and €36 for a starter and between €11 and €13 per 100g of fish or meat as a main course. If you have the budget, now is the time to treat yourself because each plate is well worth it. If the address tempts you, but the budget is a little tighter, we advise you to take 2 snacks and 2 starters for two, because the quantities are more than sufficient. That’s €86 for two without drinks. Which is ultimately the price of a good gastro.

Or ? Rue du Fossé aux Loups 46, 1000 Brussels

When ? Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m., and weekends from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. for breakfast. For dinner, meet from Tuesday to Saturday from 6 p.m. to midnight.