“Râmen Hakkenden”, a manga dive into a noodle soup

The rise of ramen in Japan

Japan is an island nation, separated from the mainland by the ocean. From a continental perspective, Japan is located at the far west of the earth, with only the vast Pacific Ocean to the east. A cultural dead end, it thus represented in the past only the eastern end of the Silk Road for Westerners.

Let us also add that since it has no common border with other countries, Japan has lacked mutual stimulation as has been the case in Europe for example. This is a plausible reason to explain the lack of originality and discovery, but there is a positive point: Japan appropriates foreign cultural elements that penetrate its territory and modifies them to such an extent that it surprises even the original creators.

This is exactly what happened with ramen. Originally Chinese, it became a staple of the working classes at the beginning of the 20th century.^e century and then spread to achieve the status of national cuisine and then become a global phenomenon.

While the variety on offer is impressive, ramen still retains this image of a cheap, affordable dish that anyone can enjoy alone. It has also managed to make its way into the world of haute cuisine, incorporating rare and expensive ingredients. In 2014, the Michelin guide in Tokyo added a “ramen” category, with the first Michelin-starred restaurant appearing two years later.

Ramen’s popularity extends beyond the archipelago, with YouTubers like Brian MacDuckston sharing their love of the dish with the rest of the world. There are even tours that invite participants to eat no fewer than six bowls in three hours. Of course, each region has its own version of the dish.

In Japan, the term “râmen” once referred to chûka-sobaChinese noodles in a simple soy sauce-based broth. Nowadays, there are so many varieties that it is almost impossible to name them all. (Pixta)

Ramen Hakkendenan intimate relationship with noodles

With such a dedicated fan base, it stands to reason that Japan has its fair share of manga dedicated to this subject. These works have a long history, with the publication of Totsugeki Ramen by artist Mochizuki Mikiya, the first ramen manga to be published regularly in the popular weekly pre-publication magazine Shonen JumpThe dish was already popular among young readers of the time.

In 1980, the successful gourmet manga Oishinbo (story by Kariya Tetsu, illustration by Hanasaki Akira) and Cooking Papa (Ueyama Tochi) both presented us with ramen-themed episodes. The early 1990s “Râmen War” arc of the manga Oishinbo dug into the subject in depth, notably with a chef from the “Institute for Research on Ramen Culture” or the “Three Musketeers of Ramen”. At that time, the culture around this dish had reached an insane level of popularity.

At the end of the 20th century^e century a new manga makes its entrance, making ramen a style in its own right: Ramen Hakkendenroughly translated as “Memoir of my ramen discoveries”. From 1999 it was serialized in the pre-publication magazine Big Comic SuperiorThe story, conceived by Kube Rokurô and illustrated by Kawai Tan, has as its collaborator the famous critic Ishigami Hideyuki, otherwise known as “the man with the divine palace”. Ramen Hakkenden made a detonating impression in the history of manga.

The protagonist, Fujimoto Kôhei, is 20 years old and is an employee of Daiyû Shôji, a trading company. His job seems to have little interest and he makes a point of leaving at 5:00 PM sharp. Fujimoto is invisible to his colleagues, but he has a dream: to own his own ramen shop. His job only serves his purpose, and to achieve it, he trains alone and runs a small stand in the evening where he sells his noodles to passersby.

Already at this time, Japan was beginning to free itself from this common idea of ​​lifelong employment. For some, the company then became a tool serving personal projects, a way of life full of potential.

As his passion grows day by day, Fujimoto continues to refine his technique. His level is certainly not that of a professional but he has a lot of knowledge, not to mention a remarkable palate in the matter. During the story, his department is oriented towards the restaurant industry and he is of course assigned the “ramen” section, which will lead him to get involved in his passion even within his company.

The story thus tells us not only about the historical development of this dish in Japan, but also how the flavors and textures evolve according to local innovations and trends. It also addresses the dark side of the industry, which mass-produces its instant broths, but also offers a comparison with other types of noodles such as soba (buckwheat noodles). Rich source of information, Ramen Hakkenden allows us to develop an intimate relationship with this cuisine.

Reading this work changes our approach to the dish, whether we are in a chain or in a venerable shop run by locals, our experience is influenced by it.

Ichiran, a restaurant chain popular with foreigners traveling to the archipelago, has exported its restaurants internationally. The style of counter separated by panels created a buzz when it was first introduced in Japan. (Kyodo)

A key element in understanding the ramen boom

In the manga, Fujimoto faces a major obstacle, the “final boss”, aka Seriazawa Tatsuya. Owner of the restaurant Râmen Seiryûbô, he is also a food coordinator. His infallible marketing strategy is at the origin of the ramen boom. A businessman, he remains above all a professional and keeps the spirit of a craftsman, even going so far as to shave his head to avoid any hair in the soup. His character brings a touch of diversity and depth to the work.

Should you always make ramen with fervor and passion? Are extreme fans always welcome? For an amateur, the answer will almost always be “yes.” For a professional, however, the commercial point of view takes precedence.

Indeed, it is not professionally intelligent to offer a dish so delicate that few people can understand its subtlety… On the contrary, offering your customers a dish that is both simple and tasty and that everyone agrees on is certainly the key to success.

Besides, for Serizawa, fanatics who spend more time boasting about their knowledge than enjoying their food “eat facts, not ramen.”

Serizawa’s popularity is such that he even has clothing and merchandise featuring him. (© Cospa; © KubeRokurô, Kawai Tan, and Shôgakukan)

On one side the hardened professional, on the other the gifted amateur, Serizawa often opposes Fujimoto, sometimes ending in a ramen duel in the center of a stage including the media.

Serizawa is someone important to the hero who, despite his impressive knowledge, remains an amateur, his income coming mainly from his job in the Daiyû Shôji company. He cannot deny that ramen remains a hobby for him, and he will eventually understand that Serizawa will have always served as his guide.

Ramen Hakkenden takes place in the mid-1990s, when ramen was developing in Japan as a unique and creative cuisine. The series was later continued in two more series titled Ramen saiyuki The content changes as it follows the history of this cuisine internationally, and continues to convey the joy associated with this dish.

But in the end, what defines this cuisine?

For Serizawa’s character, it all comes down to the passion of “taking the false and making it true.”

The origins of this noodle dish as a creative cuisine are still fresh compared to French or Chinese cuisine. In fact, it was originally a dish intended for the working classes. In the manga Oishinbo, The gourmet person played by Kaibara Yuzan calls them “vulgar.” This may have been true from his point of view, and Serizawa’s use of the word “fake” may have been motivated by the same reason.

April 2023, Members of Parliament establish the Ramen Culture Promotion Caucus, hoping to encourage regional revitalization through local dishes. (Jiji)

Manga and ramen, any similarities?

Ramen still has a lot to reveal. It is changing every day in a dynamic of perpetual evolution, which is not unlike the evolution of manga. With a still recent history and originally intended for the masses, it had no aspiration to become so popular. For people like Kaibara Yûzan, who prefer more refined things, it is certain that these works have little value (even though the latter is himself a manga character!).

The passion that fans have for manga has made it a medium with followers all over the world. They share with ramen this spirit of incorporating and refining the foreign influences that are available to them, such as European characters such as Sherlock Holmes or Arsène Lupin, but also styles of expression borrowed from American comics.

It is clear that the creators of Ramen Hakkenden worked on their work convinced of these similarities.

Now, like ramen itself, manga about ramen are also becoming more diverse. These days, there are works depicting the lives of noodle-crazy high school girls, ramen guides written in manga style, dramatic stories about the artisans, or works telling how ramen has impacted a person’s life, etc.

With an increasingly strong presence, ramen is on its way to becoming an “essential dish” in the manga universe.

(Title photo: Ramen Hakkenden was serialized in the magazine Big Comic Superior from Shogakukan from 1999 to 2009, for a total of 26 volumes. Once finished, the story continues its journey by being published in two series titled Ramen Saiyuki. Nippon.com)