A sustainable conscience does not always lead to a sustainable purchase
Generation Z cares deeply about social and environmental issues and is known for their activism and concern for the environment as it relates to climate changesocial justice and sustainability.
However, these values are not always reflected in their purchasing behavior: in practice, many of these consumers continue to choose fast fashion, as shown by a study carried out by the second-hand clothing platform ThredUp in August 2022.
This is called the “intention-behavior gap” (intention-behaviour gap): the difference between what consumers want to do (buy more sustainably) and what they actually do.
The appeal of cheap fashion for Generation Z
Influenced by the dynamics of online platforms – think of the “outfit of the day” on Instagram or TikTok trends – young people are under pressure to appear fashionable.
Shein and Temu, in particular, are capitalizing on this desire to be trendy without having to spend a lot of money, thereby attracting consumers through misleading advertisementsmarketing campaigns and discounts.
So it’s no surprise that these Chinese companies are particularly appealing to younger consumers – Shein is currently one of the most popular fashion companies in the world.
Although I am a millennial myself (born in 1988), I know, for example, that my 14-year-old niece sometimes shops at Shein. I also know a group of friends who shop there regularly. I asked them via Whatsapp why they buy from the Chinese fashion giant. This is obviously not a representative survey, but they said the top reasons to shop at Shein are low prices, convenience, and wide selection.
“Cheap,” one replied. “So I can use it for a year, then buy something else.” When I think about it, it doesn’t seem so good,” followed by a laughing smiley face.
“I go there when I quickly need a pretty summer dress or something for a party,” said another friend.
“I buy everything there,” said a third. “I no longer need to shop in different stores because you can find everything there. A bit like Zalando, but trendy.”
In the previously mentioned ThredUp study, 72% of students reported purchasing fast fashion in the year prior to the survey. More than 2 in 5 said they bought clothes for events where they were likely to only wear them once. 50% of students said they check fast fashion hauls on social media every week, and 40% say they visit fast fashion websites daily.
The fashion industry makes it difficult for consumers to build a more sustainable wardrobe, one could argue. The industry’s current focus on trends and promoting newness encourages consumers to purchase new clothing regularly.
Fast fashion dominates the market thanks to low prices and attractive, trendy items, while sustainable fashion is less accessible and often more expensive.
The good news: awareness of the negative impact on the environment reduces purchase intention
A recent case study of Generation Z, fast fashion, and Shein by Zimand-Sheiner and Lissitsa (2024) shows that after reading negative information about Shein’s environmental impact, participants developed a more negative attitude towards the company and felt “betrayed”, which reduced purchase intention. In other words, young people are less likely to buy clothes from Shein if they know how poorly the brand is performing.
This suggests that transparency and the provision of reliable information about the impact of fast fashion are essential to helping young people make informed and more conscious choices.
What is the state of this awareness?
Dutch fashion professional and speaker Ellen Haeser sees growing social awareness around sustainable fashion, also among fashion students. “However, we must be patient, because progress is made in small steps,” she emphasizes when asked.
Recently, Haeser asked his students if they would be willing to cut their wardrobe in half if the rest of the wardrobe consisted of quality pieces that could be worn for years. Only two students out of 20 answered in the affirmative. Others feared a lack of variety in outfits and that it would be boring.
During round tables at the last edition of Dutch Design Week, the same question was asked and the same answers were given, reports Haeser. “For some fashion professionals, it was a revelation: there is a big difference in awareness within the sustainability bubble and outside of it,” says Ms. Haeser.
In short, transparency and education certainly have a role to play.
But awareness is not enough. Things only really change when we make structural changes to our consumption habits. In other words, awareness must translate into lasting behavioral change.
The tension between fast fashion and sustainability, consumption and responsibility will remain a major issue within the industry for years to come.
Conclusion: fashion is always subject to paradoxes
Contradictions are inherent to the fashion industry and constitute an essential part of its dynamics. Both in terms of aesthetics and consumer behavior.
In addition to “sustainability versus fast fashion” and “trendy versus timeless,” we can think of “individuality versus conformity” and “creativity versus commerce” or “minimalism versus excess.”
Fashion is always in motion and reflects broader social trends. These contradictions make fashion not only complex, but also fascinating. It is up to us, as consumers, creators and brandsto think critically about our role in this system and to strive towards a better fashion industry, more sustainable and more responsible.
Sources :
– FashionUnited archives and in particular the articles on Dutch outlets “Shein” by Caitlyn Terra from October 2024 and the article “ThredUp launches resources to support generation Z addicted to fast fashion” by Jackie Mallon from 16 August 2022.
– NRC article “Fast fashion stores are too attractive to ignore due to low prices: ‘I saw the word ‘discount’ and walked in”” by Marit Willemsen from October 23, 2024 [en néerlandais].
– ThredUP 2022 Gen Z Fast Fashion Report, full study, available in the TredUp Newsroom. Source: GlobalData 2022 survey of 1,989 Gen Z participants in the United States (16-25 years old) in June-July 2022.
– Zimand-Sheiner, D., & Lissitsa, S. (2024). Generation Z – factors predicting lower purchase intentions after receiving negative environmental information: fast fashion brand SHEIN as a case study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 81, 103999. This study is based on an online survey of Generation Z consumers born between 1995 and 2003. The original sample consisted of 849 respondents, of whom 607 completed the questionnaire, according to the website.
– Written contribution from fashion expert and speaker Ellen Haeser, end of October 2024.
– Parts of the text in this article were created using an AI tool and then edited.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl. The translation was carried out using an artificial intelligence tool called Gemini 1.5.
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