Grand-Bassam, a creative haven for artists tired of Abidjan

Tropical heat and sea air enter through the windows of a colonial-style house, surrounded by palm trees: on the first floor of this visual arts workshop, a group of artists has chosen to settle in the coastal town from Grand-Bassam, in Ivory Coast, far from the tumult of Abidjan.

Every day for two years, Ibrahim Kétouré, in his thirties, has welcomed artists like him, tired of their time in Abidjan, into his Akan Mandingo studio-gallery, and today based 30 kilometers east of the immense economic capital and its 6 million inhabitants.

Abidjan, “it’s the urban area, traffic jams almost everywhere, while in Bassam life is good, there is the beach, the lagoon, it’s relaxing enough to have an artistic spirit”he explains to AFP.

Passing through the workshop, his friend Serge Nean works inspired by the sea, located a hundred meters away. He collects the shells deposited by the waves on the sand to create jewelry.

On the terrace, Jean-Philippe Gonçalves draws a sketch. Originally from Cape Verde and employed in industrial cleaning a few years ago, he chose to “stay longer than expected” to Bassam to become a landscaper, “surrounded by artists”he says.

A few houses further on, sculptor Paul Akossi digs a section of wood with an adze. In his small gallery opening onto the street, Paul’Art, he creates masks and colorful statues, surrounded by tools.

“We rub shoulders with artists”he says.

“When I’m not in my studio, I try to visit a friend who also makes art to try to find inspiration through his work”he explains.

According to historian and tour guide Akueson Nandouhard, “hundreds of artists left Abidjan and came here”.

First artistic city

Grand-Bassam is inspiring, esteemed by the community, unanimous and its cultural appeal is not recent.

The historic district of the city, where vegetation adorns the ruined colonial houses and makes its way through ancient windows, has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2012.

First capital of Ivory Coast during French colonization, Grand-Bassam was also “the first cultural and artistic city” of the country, by “brewing” of peoples it welcomed, indicates the historian.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Burkinabè and Malians arrived there via the Comoé River, bringing fabrics: bazin, batik and indigo, when blacksmiths and bronze workers came from other countries in the region. They all create an artisanal village, always located at the entrance to the city.

Following the country’s independence in 1960, Bassam transformed into a seaside resort before becoming one of the country’s first tourist destinations, “both at the international level and at the national level”with sales opportunities, specifies Mr. Nandouhard.

In a building open to the play of sunlight, the House of Visual Artists welcomes “several hundred visitors” per month, according to its founder George Yao.

Bassam is also a setting for creative residencies. The French rapper Ichon stopped there in November, when the N’Zima house, created by the Ivorian designer Jean-Servais Somian, brought “artists from all over the world”. The latter believes that Abidjan is “unlivable”.

Self-financing

In Bassam, a majority of artists are self-financing, sometimes by choice, preferring independence to the search for ever higher ratings.

But since the various crises that troubled the country in the 2000s and a jihadist attack which left 19 dead in 2016 on a beach in this seaside town, sales of works have been declining.

“There aren’t enough buyers anymore”laments the founder of the Ceramic Center, Yao Simplice Yao. He assures that his turnover has fallen by 25% since the opening of the place 42 years ago.

And here, “no big galleries like in Abidjan” for notoriety, according to Loriko Taki, painter.

However, a contemporary art museum will open its doors there next year, announced the Minister of Culture Françoise Remarck in mid-November.