Bulgari Tubogas, the most technical of jewelers’ jewelry

«Only twenty people in the world know its manufacturing secrets“, proudly insists Lucia Silvestri. The artistic director of Bulgari came specially to Paris last month to share her passion for the Tubogas and to reveal, in the company of two artisan goldsmiths, some of the main principles of its construction. Armed with spools of gold wire, a vice, pliers and a strange wand, they demonstrate the first gesture which consists of winding two long gold ribbons with raised edges around a wooden rod , also called core, so that they fit together and hold together without any welding. Then, the rod, which gives the crown to the precious tube, is removed so that the jewel comes to life. This unique technique requires a lot of dexterity and nearly three years of training in the brand’s factory in Valenza, Italy.

Also read
“But what life does someone lead who can afford a piece of jewelry for 40 million? »: welcome to ultra high jewelry!

«In the 1940s, when the house began to take an interest in it, there was no one more daring, feminine and innovative than Tubogasreprends Lucia Silvestri. Our customers tell us that due to its technical aspect, this collection is never intimidating, not even on a high jewelry necklace, on the contrary. Tubogas works like armor for women ! » It was precisely in 1948 that its flexibility inspired, at Bulgari, the sinuosity of a snake and appeared on the first Serpenti watches. An idea that will quickly be emulated, turning into necklaces and bracelets, quickly adopted by assertive women like Liz Taylor, its best client and best ambassador. At the height of his glory at the time of Cleopatrashe ensures crazy visibility by wearing it on set.

Also read
These young women who set their sights on the gold and steel watches of the yuppies

The glamor of Cinecittà

In reality, the invention of this form dates back to the second half of the 19th century, in the midst of the industrial revolution. Its name evokes the spirotube, also called “gas pipe”, these city gas connection tubes from the 1920s or those of the exhaust of certain racing cars.
Today, to understand its mechanism, you just need to look at a shower hose: a flexible, seamless assembly of steel strips with rounded, clean contours. Nothing very glamorous you might say, and yet! This metal work was used on platinum by a number of jewelers of the Art Deco period and taken up in a radiant yellow gold by the daring Bulgari who made it a distinctive element.

« The Tubogas pattern is so recognizable and associated with the history of Bulgari that everyone thinks we invented it !adds Laura Burdese, deputy general manager of the Roman jeweler. With its vintage and contemporary aesthetic, it has spanned the decades and has always united all ages, sexes and nationalities. »

But until now, this clever technique was mainly used for the house’s watchmaking and fine jewelry collections. It was about time he was also the star of a fine jewelry line. It’s done with sixteen new products – which required twisting 30 kilometers of gold wire! A refined bracelet version in yellow gold, another in three golds (a real success at €9,800 all the same) and a third paved with diamond studs. Chokers, pendants and other chokers are set with the Parentesi motif or with tanzanites, rubellites and green tourmalines. A collection that reconnects with the glamor of Cinecittà.

« If it unites so much, it is because Lucia Silvestri and the workshops have always strived to maintain its contemporary design – thanks to new lines and combinations of stone colors – while ensuring that it respects its vintage heritage.continues Laura Burdese. For the 140th anniversary of the house, we wanted to refocus the subject, to bring Tubogas into existence in its purest form, all in yellow gold – another Bulgari signature – devoid of diamonds or other symbols. Our customers have never found it so modern. » Liz Taylor would have loved it too.