What if your emotions could transform your skin? This is one of the promises of neurocosmetics, which aims to reinvent your beauty routine…
Feel good inside and out, as the slogan said. The beauty sector is not left out when it comes to offering products that boast not only of caring for the skin, but also of boosting well-being. There neurocosmetics goes even further. It is based on an idea: the skin and the brain, originating from the same embryonic layer – the ectoderm – maintain a constant dialogue. This link is scientifically established: the skin contains neurotransmitters and receptors that participate in processes such as inflammation, scarring and even pigmentation. Stress, for example, triggers the release of cortisol, which can worsen blemishes and accelerate skin aging. Conversely, moments of well-being increase levels of β-endorphins, bringing radiance and suppleness to the skin.
But how far can this link go? Neurocosmetics does not just emphasize this relationship: it claims to manipulate it using “neuro-ingredients”, “neuro-fragrances” and “neuro-textures” supposed to influence emotions and improve the appearance of the skin. The idea raises questions about its scientific basis: can we really impact emotions by applying a product to the skin? And if so, to what extent?
Face to face with your emotions
On a rainy Monday morning, we headed to the NEUR|AÉ institute, a new gem from the Sisley group which has devoted the last decade to the development of this project, located in the heart of Paris. The place presents itself as a temple of well-being where technology and beauty merge. The atmosphere is bright, refined, and each space seems designed to promote a feeling of serenity: terminals for personalized diagnostics, a space for workshops (facial yoga, meditation, etc.), and of course, a cabin dedicated to l’Emotion Xplorer. This is where the brand’s flagship beauty ritual will take place in the company of an advisor.
We start with a personalized diagnosis using a sensor headband designed in collaboration with the start-up Mentalista. This device is supposed to measure brain activity in real time and monitor the evolution of emotions during treatment. His very soft voice asks me: “More energy, serenity or joy? “. I admit that, given the current context, I would have liked a mix of the three! But no, you have to choose. Finally, I told myself that a little energy wouldn’t do me any harm.
The treatment begins with the application of a serum enriched with neuromodulators, followed by a massage with a cream adapted to my emotional needs. The texture, pleasant and silky, and the subtle fragrance contribute to an undeniable moment of relaxation. For about ten minutes, I let myself be carried away, and I feel the tension in my face dissipate. At the end, a screen displays a graph where we see the evolution of my emotions: my emotional flower develops with green and blue peaks, associated with newfound energy and newfound serenity. And the most surprising: the skin appears visibly more radiant and smoother. The famous glow.
An innovation at the frontiers of science and well-being
One of the axes of neurocosmetics lies in the synergy that it establishes between science, emotions and sensoriality. Product textures, scents, and even application temperature are designed to elicit specific tactile and olfactory responses. A cold, invigorating cream can stimulate, while a creamy, warming balm brings comfort.
But are these effects really linked to the “neuro-ingredients” or simply to the ritual itself? Science has shown that touch and repeated routines, such as a morning or nighttime beauty routine, have a calming effect on the nervous system. This could be enough to explain the benefits experienced, without the need to invoke revolutionary assets. Furthermore, the claims of neurocosmetics, although promising, still lack solid evidence. If the skin-brain link is a fascinating area of research, studies on the real effectiveness of these products remain limited. The mechanisms of action of locally applied neuromodulators, for example, are still poorly understood.
Neurocosmetics is part of an underlying trend: the integration of the emotional dimension into skin care. It responds to a growing need for overall well-being, where aesthetics and mental health are no longer dissociated. But this approach, still emerging, oscillates between technological advances and sophisticated storytelling. However, should we dismiss it as a simple marketing trend? Not necessarily. This discipline could be at the origin of new ways of conceiving care, where emotional well-being and physical appearance are treated as a whole. But for this promise to hold in the long term (and for everyone?), it will have to be based on more robust studies on the mechanisms at work.
