Botox or Notox? The latest advances to slow the effects of time

Botox or Notox? The latest advances to slow the effects of time
Botox or Notox? The latest advances to slow the effects of time

To slow down the effects of time, there are two options: aesthetic medicine or natural and non-invasive alternatives. What if, instead of opposing them, we combined them?

“Notox”! On social networks, it is the trend that is rising, which we owe to the contraction of “no” and “Botox.” To summarize, a (not so new) approach to anti-aging which proposes to fight against skin aging with non-invasive treatments rather than injections. This includes massages, but also acupuncture, LEDs, facial gym and, of course, cosmetics. However, at the same time, the aesthetic medicine market has never been doing so well. It amounts to billions of dollars and is growing at 5% per year around the world, and even more in the United States and Asia. Still in the lead, botulinum toxin is ahead of wrinkle fillers, such as hyaluronic acid.

Read also“I did a ton of Botox”: Olivia Colman very comfortable with the subject of injections

Growth confirmed by the two congresses devoted to aesthetic medicine, which were held recently: the 22e edition of the AMWC (Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine World Congress) in Monaco, and the 25e edition of IMCAS (International Master Course on Aging Science), in Paris, a major annual meeting for professionals in clinical dermatology, plastic surgery and anti-aging medicine. More than 800 experts gathered there to talk about the major topics of the moment: injections, lasers, cell therapy, regenerative medicine, adipose tissue transplants, artificial intelligence and ethics… “There are crucial issues in media times social, marketing abuse and fake injectors (people who inject illegally, Editor’s note), recalled the Dr Benjamin Ascher, plastic surgeon and pillar of the congress. We need to find the right balance between information and solicitation.”

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Health as a major concern

Health is another major issue, and the main concern of the DD Nelly Gauthier, aesthetic doctor, who spoke at a press conference organized by the pharmaceutical group Menarini. “My job is health, and by that I mean: healthy self-image.” She does not hesitate to compare aesthetics and art history. “If we look at paintings from the Middle Ages, we see emotionless faces, all identical, with unreal proportions and perspectives. During the Florentine Renaissance, everything changed. Drawing inspiration from Antiquity, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael came as close as possible to life.” For the DD Gauthier, the Middle Ages of aesthetic medicine, or the era of the “ageless”, is coming to an end, and we are entering Renaissance 2.0. This is based on four pillars: respect for emotions, true knowledge of fine anatomy thanks to medical discoveries, infallible technique with the best instruments and products and, finally, safety. And it all starts with the first consultation.

“There is 10% of what we say and 90% of what is implicit,” insists the aesthetic doctor. We never express the most important thing. This is why I devote more than an hour of active listening to it. Sometimes you don’t have to do anything because of the emotional context. If someone is afraid, things will go wrong. Then it’s all about harmony. I always ask for a photo of the patient before she turns 30. Not so that she finds her young girl’s face, but to respect her personal proportions. Indeed, the different layers of the face, muscles, fat, skin and bones do not age at the same rate, nor in the same way, for everyone. It is also necessary to take into account the fixed points of the face, in particular the ligament line which starts above the eyebrow, passes through the crow’s feet, the middle of the cheek then ends on the chin. “If we inject in the wrong place or too superficially, it is counterproductive and we risk accelerating the disgrace,” adds the specialist. There remain possible complications, early or late, rare but always possible. Only a seasoned doctor can remedy this. Not a makeshift beautician at a spa.

Natural alternatives

Many women prefer natural alternatives and refuse to be bitten at the first wrinkle out of conviction, fear or lack of financial means. “It’s really a different approach,” confirms Chantal Lehmann, one of the pioneers of facial massage. Twenty years ago, I started training the muscles of the face as well as those of the body and I understood that it worked by feeling aches. Over the years and my travels, I have enriched my technique and created the HoliFitness massage, which merges 450 techniques that I personalize to each client. I have treated facial hemiplegia and obtained results. But be careful, for it to work, you have to solicit the muscles and make them work in antagonism. And do repetitions, like in sports. During a session, the woman is not passive, she works with me. Kobido, for example, is an excellent tissue and circulatory massage, but it does not act on the muscles.”

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What results can we expect? Raised cheekbones and corners of the mouth, reduced wrinkles, super radiance. Chantal Lehmann is undoubtedly the only one in the world to have carried out a clinical study to study the effects of her practice, on 32 people who followed ten sessions each. “On the ultrasound, we noticed a 7% thicker dermis,” she relates. It doesn’t seem like much, but it’s huge. I have results at all ages but, of course, the earlier you start and the more regularly you do it, the more effective it is. The right protocol: five sessions close together, then once a month with a few simple exercises to do at home.” Pragmatic, she is not opposed to medicine or cosmetic surgery. “The methods can be complementary, pre- or post-facelift for example. In the event of real sagging, particularly of the eyelids, nothing replaces the scalpel.” But she doesn’t really like Botox, which makes the eyes round and, according to her, “little by little asphyxiates the skin. I only find it interesting for treating frown lines.” She also declares herself rather favorable to LEDs, which she uses regularly (notably Lightinderm and the Lucibel.le mask) and to radiofrequency (Morpheus). “Except for faces that are too thin, because it eats away the fat.”

HoliFitness treatment, 1 hour 15 minutes, €250, chantallehmann.com

Slow the effects of time

Other expert hands have developed their signature protocol. Starting with Farnaz Archangel. Radiance, tightened skin texture, faded fine lines… The facialist has a loyal clientele (including quite a few actresses and actors) who come to slow down the effects of time in her office near Place de l’Etoile, in Paris. This Iranian woman with a big heart and magical hands swears by health and gives good advice on healthy living. She only works with Isun, a 100% natural brand with cold-treated medicinal plants and charged with energy thanks to crystals.

€180 for a 1-hour treatment, €250 for a complete 1.5-hour treatment, farnaz.paris

The Seasonly brand is also a fervent supporter of the Notox trend. In its Skin Studios, we adapt to your schedule and your budget. Which allows you to come more often and as we know, in this area, only regularity pays. Korean Lift, Intraoral Massage, Tensiolift Treatment…, each treatment, each in its own way, awakens the radiance of the face, redraws the oval and contours of the mouth. Finally, let’s not forget the experts with nimble fingers who have put facial massages back in the spotlight: Aline Faucheur, the queen of kobido, Sophie Carbonari, Delphine Langlois, Marie Depoulain and Élisabeth Nado.

€65 for 30 min, €145 for 1 hour, seasonly.fr

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