news from Girondine Lilou Aigon, who is cycling from Kathmandu to Lacanau

An the month of October, Lilou Aigon, 22, embarked on a bicycle journey from Kathmandu to Lacanau. A journey of adventure and encounters which should last between six months and a year. Dance and the discovery of cultures are at the heart of her journey. More than two months after her departure, she gives us some news.

What country are you in and how many kilometers have you traveled since you left?

I'm in Kochi, southwest India, to celebrate the end of year holidays. The idea was to enjoy the tropical climate, under the palm trees, by the Arabian Sea, and to return to summer. Since leaving Kathmandu on October 20, I have traveled more than 2,000 km, crossing Nepal's chaotic and mountainous roads to reach Everest, the almost invisible border between Nepal and India, and fascinating places like Varanasi, a true Disneyland of Hinduism, or the majestic Taj Mahal.

How is your daily life going? Do you have a good reception from the populations?

It is divided into three stages: I cycle, I stop for a few days in cities to explore, understand and meet people, or I take refuge in a café to prepare my itineraries and research local cultures. The days are long, often between 100 and 140 km, but the roads here in India are flat and smooth, a real treat after the mountains of Nepal!

Meeting the locals is magical. I am always surprised by the kindness of people who smile at me, encourage me, and often offer me tea. It's a real exchange. For meals, I discover new dishes every day, often in small restaurants where I don't always understand what I'm ordering, but that's also the beauty of traveling. To sleep, I alternate between affordable hotels, youth hostels or with locals via platforms like Couchsurfing. I admit that finding places to bivouac in India is more complicated than in Nepal, but the freedom of being able to sleep with locals or in unexpected places more than makes up for it. It’s an adventure where everything falls into place thanks to meetings and opportunities. It's fascinating to see how things order themselves when we accept being fully free.

The geopolitical situation is complex at the moment. Is security a concern for you?

So far, I haven't really been worried. The countries crossed are generally safe, even for a woman traveling alone. However, reaching France from Asia is a real logistical challenge, and exchanges with other travelers by bike, especially on Whatsapp groups, help me navigate. My next step will take me to Pakistan, then to China. The border between these two countries being closed in winter due to the altitude (4,600 m), I will not be there before March or April. In Pakistan, a police escort is required at certain times, but this seems more of a formality than a real necessity, such is the warm welcome from the Pakistanis. Then I will cross Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Russia, Georgia, Turkey, then finally Europe. Security concerns mainly concern visas, which can be complicated to obtain, especially in countries around the Caspian Sea.

“What I feel on a daily basis is a great freedom, but also a beautiful humility in the face of the realities of others”

How are you experiencing this trip? What does it bring you?

It is a school of life. Each kilometer covered helps me to know myself better, to test my physical and mental limits. The challenge is constant. It is also an immersion in new cultures. My bike and I still have a few secrets to discover, but we are learning to tame each other little by little. I like this rhythm: a mixture of slowness, authentic exchanges and curiosity. There is a form of creativity in this trip, with video projects in preparation, such as inspiring portraits or discoveries of traditional dances.

What I feel on a daily basis is a great freedom, but also a beautiful humility in the face of the realities of others. The different cultures that I experience open my mind: the flavors, the smells, the way of greeting, of expressing love, all of this enriches me. I also take a step back from my own culture, my certainties, and I have in-depth discussions with locals on subjects like money, professional opportunities, and the ease or difficulty of traveling. I feel like I am transforming with each step.

Do you have a memorable story that illustrates what you are going through?

In eastern Nepal, in Shivalaya, after several weeks of cycling, I had learned that Nepalese roads were unpredictable. This time, rather than relying on Google Maps, I asked locals for directions. I was given a route through Shivalaya, renowned for its beauty. The start was beautiful, following a river in a narrow valley. But quickly, the road turned into a real challenge: steep slopes, stones and holes everywhere, and Google Maps still showed me 40 km to go. Night was falling, and I was beginning to despair. Then a bus arrived. I signaled for him to stop.

On board, it was madness: my bike and I were stuck in the central aisle, shaken from all sides, but everyone was laughing. And then, two teenagers came up and said “hello” to me in English. They had searched on the Internet how to greet me in my language! It was the start of an incredible encounter. They invited me to spend the night at their house, but I stayed there for five days, because it was the national holiday, Thiar, and their mother insisted that I celebrate it with them. I had an exceptional week: dancing, shared meals, discussions with the village… I will never forget. Today, we are still in contact, and I even had the chance to see them again in Kathmandu. These kinds of moments are what make this trip unforgettable.

Also find Lilou on Instagram (@liliworld.a.velo), Facebook (Lilou Aigon) or YouTube (Liliworld).