Claude Droussent reveals his top 5 gravel routes on the TER line between Paris and Nevers. The Center Loire remains a little-known territory. Located between the Loire à vélo cycling route, the Morvan massif, the departments of Loiret, Nièvre and Cher. Yet it is overflowing with promise. Forests, vineyard paths, small very secondary roads, greenways along the water's edge. Along the TER Paris-Nevers line, there are fantastic opportunities for easily accessible gravel adventures. For a day or a weekend, less than two hours from the capital.
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Like a great wine list
Vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. Bertranges Forest. Towpaths. Sumptuous panoramas: the Center Loire is a fantastic destination for discovering and practicing gravel. The multiplicity of terrains and difficulties make it very attractive. I discovered and identified five itineraries with different characteristics and atmospheres. Five journeys to the heart of rural France with many treasures.
From station to station
My common thread? The departures for these five loops are from an SNCF station on the TER Paris-Nevers line. Attention ! Free reservation required for your bike from May, from Montargis. They are therefore accessible less than two hours by TER from Paris. Nevers is also only two hours by train from Clermont-Ferrand, three hours from Lyon. Over distances of 40 to 80 kilometers, 50 to 70% off road. These routes are all easily completed in a day, even in winter. You can string together two or three without logistical difficulties, during a long weekend.
Gourmet ravitos
When it comes to supplies, you won't be caught off guard. A solid must-have: goat's cheese and not just the famous crottin de Chavignol in Sancerre. Obviously, you will not escape tasting at least one of these great wines (preferably white)*. Those who make the reputation of the Center Loire. Vines of Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre. The hillsides of Giennois or the Côtes de la Charité. These appellations will be on your way…
The most surprising: Bertranges forest and Nivernais valleys, from La Charité-sur-Loire
Don't postpone the break
Nugget east of La Charité-sur-Loire and towards the great lakes of the Morvan massif, just above Nevers! It is a route of 83 kilometers of reasonable difficulty (730 m of cumulative D+). It first takes you deep into the spectacular Bertranges forest. You are in the heart of the second largest oak grove in France after that of Tronçais (Allier). The mystical Cow Fountain is yours. The Reserve crossroads. The Mardelles reserve. These places are available on the limestone plateau of Nivernais as far as Prémery, also via a few white paths. Choose Prémery for a refreshment break, it will be more difficult afterwards.
The Morvan Mountain
Past Prémery, the land remains hilly and becomes agricultural up to the historic site of the astonishing Butte de Montenoison. Take your momentum, there are 400 m to cover between 10 and 15% to get there! There we find the ruins of medieval ramparts, the proud Notre-Dame de l'Assomption church. Above all, from this place nicknamed here “The Mountain” embrace the breathtaking view towards the north over the Nivernais valley and the Morvan massif. We continue with Arthel and its castle. Arbourse and its Orchid Butte and a return via the Mazou pond, again in the Bertranges forest. This route is a delicious immersion in deep Nièvre, in the far west of Burgundy. The Komoot track here.
The most spectacular: Bec d'Allier and lateral canal to the Loire, departing from Nevers
Raymond's Landmark
Nevers is becoming a popular cycling hub. Located two hours by TER from Paris, at the start of the official Loire cycling route or towards the Great Lakes of Morvan. When you pass through the Nièvre prefecture, you must also add “ To ride list » this short loop. Barely 40 kilometers, without major difficulty. The perfect itinerary to get started.
An untamed river
This loop offers contrasting visions and atmospheres of the great river on all sides that we do not
found nowhere else on the Loire by bike. Lateral canal, Guétin aqueduct (walk on land for 300 m to cross it) and km 0 of the most famous cycling route in France on the left bank. Then, on the right bank, after crossing the Fourchambault bridge, 4 kilometers of gentle climb. The reward is at the top. A sumptuous panorama of the Bec d'Allier. It is an agitated convergence of the latter with the Loire, before a return closer to the river. In Nevers, don't miss the break at Café Vélo, an unmissable spot. The Komoot track is here.
The most muscular: through the Sancerre vineyard, leaving from Tracy
A loop that is worth it
Warning Warning: very good physical condition and very small developments required! The Cher department is worth it. Exploring the Sancerre vineyard takes you through hollows and valleys galore. The “raids” are in ambush. All this is a great physical demand. 900 m of positive altitude difference here,
for just over 50 kilometers… And the paths between the vineyards are sometimes stony, be careful with your tire inflation.
Cold
The conquest of the village, promontory which dominates the Loire from 150 meters on the left bank, label The most beautiful villages in Francewill wait for the end of this muscular itinerary. Muscle is needed very quickly in a wooded area. Barely time to warm up, as soon as you leave Tracy-Sancerre station, take the right bank. Once past the Ménestrol railway viaduct, to the TDF antenna of La Pierre Coupilière, km 9. We start again between km 20 and 30. You are exposed in the vineyard. This time before the hamlet of Epsailles, after the village of Bué and at the exit of Chavignol, cradle of the famous crottin.
The panoramas are yours
The adventure continues due north through small lanes and vineyard paths to Saint-Gemme-en-Sancerrois, via Verdigny and Sury-en-Vaux. They offer fantastic panoramas before returning via the Bois des Charnes. Passing through the medieval (and perched) village of Sancerre still requires a good effort. It's rolling (on asphalt this time) before thinking about returning to Tracy station.
A gourmand or gourmet delight
For an emergency refueling, given the excess of energy required, head to the Le Lichou pastry shop in Sancerre. You don't know his century-old recipe for the eponymous cake made from almond paste? Believe me, it's a perfect comfort. For slower sugars, I recommend the essential combo crottin de Chavignol – glass of Sancerre* (white) on a terrace on the Nouvelle place. The Komoot track here.
The most intoxicating: Côteaux du Giennois and Pouilly Fumé, from Cosne-sur-Loire
Vine as far as the eye can see
Vineyards, more vineyards, therefore kilometers of vineyard paths… This 73 km loop with a modest elevation gain (+ 520 m) is an ode to two of the most prestigious appellations of the Center Loire: Côteaux du Giennois and Pouilly Fumé. It sets off from the Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire station to the heights of the Côteaux du Giennois via Saint-Loup-les-Bois (and its… MOMAR, museum of old agricultural machinery), the Alligny forest- Cosne, before very beautiful panoramas of the vineyards.
The appeal of appellations
Pougny, km 30, marks the limit of the Côteaux. At Saint-Laurent l'Abbaye, we enter the territory of renowned appellations. Pouilly-sur-Loire and Pouilly-Fumé, Sauvignon grape varieties with a characteristic “flint” taste. Gentle slope, still in the middle of the vineyards, up to Pouilly and its Milieu de Loire pavilion – km 500 from the river. We then go back to the pretty village of Saint-Andelain. An essential stop at its Belvedere for a unique view of the vineyards and the river. Testimonies of the river life of the sailors follow as close as possible to the Loire and its islands until returning to Cosne. In town, don't miss the Eden Cinema, a little art deco gem. The Komoot track here.
The most fluvestre : from Loing to the Loire, departing from Montargis
Along the water
I offer you the opportunity to embark on a “river” adventure – river and land – with an unexpected change of scenery. We can start with a discovery of the Little Venice atmosphere offered by the network of canals which irrigates Montargis. Never far from the course of the… Loing, the Briare canal then unfolds its towpath which has become a greenway and a section of the Scandibérique. Don't miss La Maison prodigieuse de Montbouy, a former lock keeper's house transformed into a bookstore. The locks are revealed at your own pace. The most remarkable? The nautical stopover at Chatillon-Coligny, the site of the Seven Locks of Rogny (work from the 17th century) to the Etang de la Gazonne punctuate the route to the sumptuous Briare aqueduct, a metal structure designed by Eiffel. 662 m long, it was until the beginning of this XXIth longest century in the world.
Works of art
You can drive there along the water on both sides. Adapt your pace, respecting pedestrians, do not hesitate to put your foot down. After a gourmet break at Chocolats et Chimères at the entrance to the canal bridge, we leave Scandibérique. Direction the Loire by bike towards Nevers. We cross the bridge
Chatillon-sur-Loire. To, on the left bank, discover the old Mantelot lock and water station, an atypical place, a vestige of the merchant traffic of yesteryear on the Briare aqueduct. A loop over a reasonable distance (72 km for… less than 200 m of D+). Favor the return by TER from Briare station, which you reach on the right bank of the Loire via the island of Beauval. The Komoot track here.
Looking forward to next month, with the return of Claude Droussent's good tips. Of course, if you know these traces, if you discover them, we invite you in the comments to enrich them with your discoveries.
Photo credits: Claude Droussent
*We remind you about alcohol, it is good to consume it in moderation.
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