Wines of the week | The affordable, the classic and the discovery

We are seeing more and more bottles topped with wax, like that of the Greek wine Livia. Don’t bother cutting it out! It only causes damage. Pierce the wax directly with the tendril of a corkscrew, then continue pushing it into the cork. When removing the cap, a good wax should break cleanly. And bottles capped in this way, like those closed with a screw cap, can also age very well.

Affordable

A Piedmont appellation to discover

Affordable, full of character and also a discovery! Grignolino d’Asti is a little-known appellation of red wine from Piedmont. Grignolino is a very old indigenous grape variety and Asti province. It is a very unique grape variety: it produces wines that are pale in color, but sometimes fierce in tannins! And which display the very dry and tasty character of good Piedmontese wines. Here is a perfect example to get started. Indeed very pale, it offers a discreet nose of small red fruits, very cherry, with notes of herbs, black tea, tobacco leaves. Archi-dry, medium body, it is carried by a lively freshness with a solid chew on the finish, with moderate but firm tannins. Perfect for the table and comfort food: Piedmontese agnolotti, anise-braised beef, mushroom risotto.

Keeping: 2 to 3 years

Montalbera Grignè Grignolino d’Asti 2023, $18.15 (13014372), 13.5%

Consult the SAQ sheet

Classic

In the climate turmoil

The 2023 vintage was marked by heat and drought, like 2022, but also by rains almost the entire month of August. Germany, like all wine-producing countries, must deal with climate change. This is where we recognize the great winegrowers. Those who are always in observation mode, who question themselves, and who work their vineyards with care to ensure their resilience. This is the case of Dönnhoff and one of the reasons which explain the quality of their wines. Very dry and aromatic, Riesling Trocken offers a spring-like nose with notes of white flowers, lime, peach and rosemary. Light, juicy and super tonic, with a long finish, it is perfect to whet your appetite, but even better at the table: ceviche or scallop and green apple tartare; fish with rosemary, citrus or Thai.

Keeping: 3 to 4 years

Dönnhoff Riesling Trocken Nahe 2023, $24.00 (13510552), 11.5%

Consult the SAQ sheet

Discovery

Ancient grape variety, successful vinification

A discovery, but not an unknown grape variety: muscat à petits grains is among the oldest! Known for its sweet wines, it is difficult to vinify dry. Hyper aromatic, low in acidity and with a notable bitterness, it can quickly become boring, soft or unpleasantly bitter. Coming from the island of Samos, where Muscat has reigned for centuries, this one is very successful. Intensely aromatic, it displays notes of orange, peach, grape, jasmine, rose, citrus peel and herbs. And what a mouth! It offers substance and a lot of vitality. Resinous notes, pretty bitters and very light tannins bring character, relief and chew. Singular and fascinating, it’s sure to get people talking! For the table: mezzeroasted carrots (saffron, cumin or zaatar), fish with orange, fennel or olives, or with orange gremolata.

Keeping: 4 to 5 years

Livia Under the plant Wine of Greece 2022, $35.75 (14555550), 12.5%, organic

Consult the SAQ sheet